The Beauty of Tailored Enzymes: Compound Purity in Cosmetics

In the world of cosmetics manufacturing, achieving compound purity is a top priority. After all, consumers expect nothing but the best when it comes to the products they use on their skin.

Beauty buyers are showing increased concerns about cosmetic products safety; not only from a health perspective, but also in regards to the environment. And now more than ever, smart shoppers are more predisposed to question the real efficacy that some cosmetic products claim to have.

Moreover, most recent guidelines and good practices include references to the safety and sustainability in the design of compounds and products. Caring about ingredient purity also means caring for adopting manufacturing processes that fit within modern frameworks.

The problem with achieving compound purity

However, this goal poses a significant challenge for many manufacturers, as impurities can often creep into the manufacturing process, leading to undesirable byproducts and compromised product quality.

Let’s say a cosmetic manufacturer is tasked with producing a novel, scented lotion. They may encounter issues with impurities when incorporating different fragrances into their formulation. Without precise control over the chemical reactions involved, unwanted byproducts may form, affecting not only the scent, but also the overall quality of the lotion.

Similarly, in the case of some of the most common cosmetic ingredients used -emulsifiers, emollients, stabilisers, thickeners, preservatives, moisturisers, and pigments-, the presence of impurities can have detrimental effects on the final product.

And worst of all, the traditional approaches to tackling impurities – whether through chemical means or with generic enzymes – often fall short of delivering the desired results.

Chemical reactions can produce unwanted byproducts, while generic enzymes may not possess the specificity required to target the desired compounds effectively.

This dilemma leaves manufacturers grappling with costly purification processes to salvage their products.

The hidden cost of purification processes

When we talk about purification processes, the first question that may come to mind is: “how much is this going to cost me?”

While necessary, downstream byproducts treatment can be a significant financial burden, with costs often accounting for a substantial portion of the overall manufacturing expenses. In fact, purification costs alone can amount to a staggering 20-40% of the total sum, putting a strain on the bottom line of cosmetic companies.

So, the benefits of reducing the economic cost of these types of processes is a no-brainer. But a second -and equally important- question we should be asking ourselves is: “how much is this going to cost the environment?” And for that, the cost is also highly steep (even if it doesn’t directly affect our pockets).

Purification processes often involve:

• • Use of harsh chemicals Such as solvents and reagents to remove impurities from compounds. These chemicals can contribute to air and water pollution during manufacturing and disposal, leading to environmental and ecosystem degradation.
  • Energy-intensive methods Such as heating or cooling processes to separate and purify compounds. Plus, the use of fossil fuels to power these energy-consuming inputs can result in greenhouse gas emissions.
  • Resource depletion Such as water or rare earth metals, which are finite and often non-renewable. For example, water-intensive purification processes can strain local water supplies and ecosystems, particularly in regions already facing water scarcity or pollution issues.

Tailored biocatalysts for pure products

So how can biocatalysis tackle the purification process challenge?

When it comes to meeting the highest standards of purity, tailor-made enzymes are one of the smartest options to try out. Tailor-made enzymes are custom-designed to perform specific critical reactions with precision and efficiency.

Unlike generic enzymes, which may lack the necessary specificity, tailor-made enzymes can be fine-tuned to target the exact compounds of interest, minimizing the formation of unwanted byproducts.

In practice, this means:

• • Designed to catalyze reactions with maximum efficiency Tailored enzymes are not only a sustainable choice; they’re a highly efficient choice. It results in products that are free from impurities and meet the quality requirements of today's consumers.
  • Versatility and adaptability Whether it's to remove impurities from raw materials, optimize chemical reactions, or enhance product stability, enzymes can be customized to address a wide range of manufacturing challenges.
  • Cost-effective solution By minimizing the formation of undesirable byproducts, these enzymes reduce the need for expensive purification processes, saving both time and money in the production process.

The Story of Biomelanin

Like the good stories in science, biomelanin was found by chance.

Back in 2020, the GECCO Biotech team was growing a new set of enzymes in the lab when they noticed that the fermentation media presented an unexpected dark color. Once they took a closer look at the reaction mechanism, they were surprised to see they had found a fermentative melanin production process.

The Gecco team performed instrumental analysis of the produced biomelanin and confirmed its structure was identical to the natural melanin isolated from sepia. Plus, thanks to being a stable compound, it mixed well in creams, making it a great ingredient for different products, including cosmetics.

Melanin, as you might be surprised to learn, is a highly versatile ingredient. Some known properties applied to cosmetics include:

• • Sun protection Due to its ability to absorb light, melanin can be applied in sunscreens as a UV protector.
  • Colouring As a pigment, it finds applications in tanning and products related with colouring, like natural hair boosters or treatments for dyed hair.
  • Anti-aging As a potent antioxidant, melanin can be applied to anti-aging products.

After such a ‘serendipity’ event, Gecco Biotech got together with ZYMVOL to take a bold step: creating OXYCO, a new co-venture to bring biomelanin to market.

This biomelanin - just like melanin, but produced through the use of enzymes - is a great example of the power of tailor-made enzymes: not only because it has opened the door to an alternate, biochemical way of achieving melanin, but also because the melanin obtained is one of high purity.

Since it’s a much purer product, the purification process is much simpler, which in turn makes it more economic. And that, as a consequence, makes it more accessible to many companies who, until now, could not explore the possibilities of melanin because it was too expensive (Did you know that the market price for chemically synthesised melanin can go as far as 500€/g? Yikes!).

Biomelanin is just one example. But imagine the possibilities that are still unexplored!

Achieving compound purity through tailored enzymes is possible. In fact, it might play an essential role in the future of cosmetics.